Editor's note: The Southern Foodways Alliance delves deep in the history, tradition, heroes and plain old deliciousness of barbecue across the United States. SFA oral historian Amy Cameron Evans wrote this remembrance of pitmaster Ralph Parker.
It saddens us to share news that the barbecue community has lost another legend. Ralph Parker, the last surviving original founder of Parker’s Barbecue, passed away on July 4 at the age of 89.
If barbecue is big business in North Carolina, Parker’s Barbecue is a veritable warehouse of whole-hogism. Located in the eastern city of Wilson, Parker’s serves over 150 smoked pigs and 8,000 fried chickens to 20,000 customers each week. Catering to crowds is part of the Parker’s mythos; on one brilliant afternoon in 1954, founders Ralph Parker, Graham Parker, and Henry Parker Brewer fed 17,000 chopped barbecue plates in one day.
Inside Parker’s, a group of young men in 1950s-style, white paper caps stand in formation ready to usher the next group to their table. Almost no one needs a menu. The Parkers would be proud to see their dining room so full after more than 65 years in business.
In 2011, when we added Parker’s to our Southern BBQ Trail, Ralph Parker still regularly held court, sipping a cup of coffee and greeting customers. At the time, he conceded that Parker’s “barbecue is better than it has ever been.”
Learn more about Ralph Parker via this lovely remembrance in The Wilson Times.
Go here to read our oral history interview with two of the current owners of Parker’s Barbecue, Donald Williams and Kevin Lamm.
Previously - Barbecue loses a legend: Ricky Parker
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