Ray Isle (@islewine on Twitter) is Food & Wine's executive wine editor. We trust his every cork pop and decant – and the man can sniff out a bargain to boot. Take it away, Ray.
Lately I’ve been thinking about lobster. Partly this is because I spend time every summer in Maine, and partly it's because of all the odd news reports about lobstermen hauling in more and more lobsters of unusual colors - orange, blue, white, calico, one color on one side, one on another, you name it.
Now, I don’t know of any studies yet about the taste of a blue lobster versus a calico one, but I do know that whenever you say “lobster” and “what wine?” people always say “oaky Chardonnay.” To that I say, "Hmm." If you have enough butter slathered on the lobster (shoot, if you have enough butter slathered on your shoe), an oaky wine may taste great. But in general, a white with a lot of new oak aging will overwhelm the flavors of shellfish, even lobster, which is fairly delicate. Here are a few other varieties to consider:
Chablis (or other unoaked Chardonnays)
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