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February 20th, 2012
11:45 AM ET
Laissez les bons temps rouler! It's Mardi Gras time in New Orleans, and to us that means an excuse to down as many muffulettas, oysters, bowls of etouffee and gumbo, and glasses of brandy milk punch as we can fit in our mouths. It's also a time for New Orleans' residents (and many fans) to celebrate the resilient spirit of a city that refused to give up, despite a series of tragedies that threatened to destroy their way of life forever. Fill up a Hurricane glass, grab a beignet and get a taste of life in America's most delicious city. What NOT to Do During Mardi Gras - Lu Brow advises not to bargain for beads and shares the importance of a Popeye's run with strangers Five Cocktails I Enjoy Creating and CONSUMING During Mardi Gras - but Lu certainly knows how to cut loose, too What we ate in New Orleans - and you should, too. iReport: The best bites in New Orleans - We asked, and you shared your must-try foods all over town. The food that got them through - New Orleanians love to talk...and argue...and educate...and opine about food. It's who they are, and what has kept them going, even when their very way of life was in danger of being swept away forever. A Secret Supper - N'awlins style - join us at the table, won't you? Mardi in the USA! - Can't make it to New Orleans? These restaurants have you covered. Oysters stage a comeback after BP disaster - the region rallies after a man-made disaster A toast to Leah Chase - raise a glass to the Queen of Creole Cuisine Mardi Gras: Milk that packs a brandy punch - a recipe from New Orleans bar chef Lu Brow Beyond Bourbon Street - the real fun is on Frenchmen St. Alligator to z'herbes: NOLA food 101 - beignets, boudin and Ramos gin fizzes Five Pig Parts You Should Be Eating - Chef Chris Lusk, the King of Louisiana Seafood steps ashore and goes whole hog Daytime drinking in New Orleans - do the right thing and dive into a Brandy Milk Punch or a Pimms Cup The great gumbo debate - okra or file? How dark is your roux?
Shrimp etouffee for the New Orleans soul - New Orleans food expert Poppy Tooker shares how this dish feeds your soul and your stomach Beyond Raw: How New Orleans serves up oysters - charbroiled, Rockefeller and po' boys abound Making gumbo with John Besh and James Carville - celebrating Gulf seafood with a family recipe Five Reasons to Eat in Louisiana - gumbo runs deep when you're from the Pelican State
Whooooo boy! - po boy, poor boy, po-boy, po' boy or peaux boy? How do you spell this sandwich? Muffuletta madness - if it's not cold from Central Grocery, is it still a muffuletta? (We vote YES!) How to peel a head-on shrimp - a little lagniappe from a visit with Poppy Tooker Five Tips on Making Homemade Sausage - the executive chef of New Orleans restaurant Sylvain shares his sausage secrets Fear of not eating something - share your ultimate New Orleans restaurant crawl Cooking with Carville - the Ragin' Cajun talks about the food that fuels him Of Mardi Gras Krewes and King Cakes - we look at the sweet history of King Cake |
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All you need to eat and drink in Mardi Gras can be summed up in two words: Four Loko.
By learning from "Penny Health" When it comes to medical insurance, never use the words "experimental" or "investigational" or tell them that you want them to pay for a clinical trial.
Everything you've ever heard about mardi gras in Nola is true, but that's only the half of it. The other half they were too embarrassed to tell you about. ;-)
I love that town.
Hmm, I lived many yrs in the N.O. area, but by far the most fun & best food I ever ate was when I lived in Jefferson Davis Parish. In the country folks. West of N.O. on the I-10, just drive, you'll find it. & Lafayette has some good times too. Braux Bridge also has some pretty good eaten places, that's west of N.O. as well. Just drive west young people, you'll find plenty nice folks & lotsa' gr8 eaten! The best food was those home-made meals. Lots of it, & soo good!! Boiled crawfish, French bread po'boys from a place in Lake Charles .. Peninos, or something like that, they also make gr8 "moochalotahs" as we call them. Bodin from several places, not the Bodin KIng in Jennings. Popeye's fried chicken, french fries, & biscuits. Yes, folks a fast food place but the one in Jennings, LA. was goood! O m g! I am soo miss'n the gr8 people, & the gr8 food! So if you've had a bad experience in N.O., I am sorry to hear that, perhaps, you should avoid the big city & try some oither places. If you treat people nice, I'm sure they will do the same for you. Happy Fat Tuesday!
You speak the truth. All the attention is on the east bank, but the west bank has sooo much to offer.
I love the Quarter and have poopie pants.
I am just curious, to the best of my knowledge. I have never seen any gulf shrimp or oysters in the super markets here in Colorado. Why?
Mmm! All that food in those pictures are so good! I have had almost all of them and MMM!
I really wish they had thrown in the Muffaletta and Brocatos Canolis on that list but when you go there ask for both people will help you get to them.
Muriel's keeps coming up on lists. Obviously a tourist voted for that.
thank you to all the chefs cooks and recipies that are available.
I was treated to so poorly at Cochon that I couldn't recommend it to anyone. Otherwise, New Orleans is certainly home to the most interesting and tasty cuisine in the States- RIP Parasol's!
Good plug for a few eateries but the list is endless in Nawlins, good food abounds and yes you aint supposed to eat this stuff every day. It's rich and decadent and satisfying. It's ashamed to see people here who go there and have to complain about how it isn't how THEY want it. It's NAWLINS for Christ sake, YOU aint that important there. Do like the City let's you or got to Colorado and grin instead of smile.......
first off, i love nola but it is not the end all be all of louisiana. i am from lafayette and we have a better mardi gras and a huge music scene. and the dancing! cajun and zydeco dancing, and swing! food's better, not as elegant as nola tries to be. much more family and good-time oriented. and not to mention all the mardi gras runs- or courirs. they are not even to be compared to spending your mardi gras stuck on a street watching floats go by
Boobs?
I'm from Louisianna and went to mardi gras every year. Now I live in Oklahoma and couldn't make it to N.O. this year. So we went to Eureka Springs, Ark instead because it's close. Man was I surprised. It was much better than N.O. It was smaller but much more in the spirit of Marcia gras. Mardi gras in N.O. is just too big and impersonal now.
*mardi gras* damn kindle
I don't know where you've been in NOLA, but obviously not to the better restaurants. And it's Cafe du Monde. There is crime in every city. It's the tourists that mess everything up in NOLA, a bunch of people who can't handle their liquor and don't know what good food is. And you obviously didn't go to the right places if you feel there were no "attractive" people. You were probably looking at the out of towners.
As far as street performers go, is it really that big a deal? In SF, you have homeless people asking you for money every block, and when you don't have a quarter for them, they give you attitude. That's SO much better than being able to have a good time and bring your drink on the street with you instead of downing it at a bar or restaurant.
my heart aches am not in Nawlins this year for Mardis Gras.
on the other hand I can see how some people don't like it; in fact I would prefer it if fewer people liked NOLA and Mardis Gras became smaller like it was 20-30 years ago. NOLA cant handle the throngs that visit it for Mardo Gras
new orleans is the dingle berries between americas but cheeks
Don't forget to show your t1ts
THE BUTTHOLE OF AMERICA!
The sooner global warming floods that welfare state sewer, the better.
Yes its not like New Orleans has hundreds of years of history, and culture with 1.3 million people living in its metro area. Its not like there are great historic landmarks on almost every corner, and its not like the city has a thriving movie industry, or has a huge offshore industry. Lets just blow up the levies and flood the city i live in right now.
Richard... You really deserve your nickname. D*ck.
The agriculture department will force us all to eat chicken nuggets.
I worked in New Orleans for 28 years. Out of towners would ask, "Where's a good place to go in the French Quarter?" I'd answer, "I don't know, I never go there." There were tons of local restaurants elsewhere that served outstanding food and yes, I've been to San Francisco on more than one occasion. Sorry, SF can't touch NO for eateries. People who don't care for N'Awlins food must think McDonald's, Burger King and Wendy's are 5 star restaurants.
Now I am craving some fried gator and gumbo!
I was told not to go into New Orleans for the food, it's turned into a tourist trap. If you want true cajun food, you have to go to the holes in the wall. Don't get a Po Boy in town, go out of town for those. I make Beignet's at home, for special occasions.
With all the obesity going on there should be an article on what people WILL NOT eat.
all of you criticizing New Orleans: name for me anything your crappy city has contributed in terms of food, art, music, literature, etc that even comes close to New Orleans. Go eat at your chain restaurants in Topeka or Des Moines. Down here in NOLA, we'll keep on making this bland, boring country a little more interesting.
Topeka? It was abandoned back in the 70s and it is now a deserted sweath of land.
My husband and I found a good place to eat in New Orleans hard to find. I'm sure they are there, I have no doubt- but venturing into less than savory areas for a good bite to eat wasn't in our plans. We DID find that in the French Quarter, there were a few gems hiding in the melee of overpriced, overhyped restaurants. Yo Mama's was one of those- AWESOME burgers, and loaded baked potatos to DIE for. Not southern per se- but the price was right, and the food was GREAT. Also, Coops Place served up a mean Chicken Tchoupitoulas- savory, creamy, and spicy- hit the spot! The Joint had some great BBQ, and Johnnys Po Boys on St Louis had some great ( and HUGE) po boys. Cafe Du Monde was a fun nightly stop after too much drinking, and Fiorellas fried chicken was sad and OVERRATED.
Seriously? Did you only go to three places? I'll admit Cochon is pretty good, but they have attitude issues. I have to agree with the commenter above. I prefer Cafe Beignet to Cafe Du Monde. They have the best breakfast sandwich I've ever eaten! Highly recommend it.
I prefer the oysters at Felix's to Drago's, or Acme's for that matter. Grand Isle has great baked oysters too. Hands down, the best place to eat in New Orleans is the Pelican Club in the Quarter. From the bread, to the entree, to the bread pudding, they're tops in every category!
Better yet, avoid New Orleans altogether! First of all, it reeks of pee and vomit...kinda like the stench that comes from the black liquid that drips from a dumpster. Secondly, there are no public bathrooms (which explains the former) and the only way to be admitted to use one is if you are a paying customer. There is nor parking anywhere (only if you pay like $20) Lastly, those streets performers are RUDE as heck...they demand $$ (bills only) whenever a camera is pointed their way or if you stare too long.
No it doesn't. One street smells like that, and most people with any know-how of New Orleans, especially the locals, avoid it like the plague, because that's not where the real party and culture is anyways.
You're a moron. We don't want you in our city. No gumbo for you.
Cafe DU Mondeis the only good thing about New Orleans! It smells and nasty bums follow you around and beg for money. Crime everywhere! we can drink in our own city where its clean, smells good and have betterlooking people! DO NOT GO TO NOLA
as someone who lives in the French Quarter I second this statement. I literally live two blocks from Bourbon St, and never drink there. The smells, and nasty crap in the streets is put there by tourists, and not locals. There is a lot more to do here then most people realize. People tend to visit here, then got straight to Bourbon and get drunk (which is fine, and millions of people enjoy it), but do not judge a entire city on one road.
also to add to what NOLADOESSMELLLIKEDOODOO said. I am sorry but you cannot comment on how attractive people are here, when all you do is goto Bourbon St because none of those people are from here. With that said, if you think Bourbon St does not get attractive girls you obviously have not been here very much.
I have to agree that the French Quarter DID have an EXTREMELY unpleasant smell- to the point where it made you sick after awhile, and my shoes smelled like it for DAYS afterwards!! What do you expect, however, when it is an area known for drinking and carrying on??
Smelly, I don't know where you've been in NOLA, but obviously not to the better restaurants. And it's Cafe du Monde. There is crime in every city. It's the tourists that mess everything up in NOLA, a bunch of people who can't handle their liquor and don't know what good food is. And you obviously didn't go to the right places if you feel there were no "attractive" people. You were probably looking at the out of towners.
As far as street performers go, is it really that big a deal? In SF, you have homeless people asking you for money every block, and when you don't have a quarter for them, they give you attitude. That's SO much better than being able to have a good time and bring your drink on the street with you instead of downing it at a bar or restaurant.
As a New Orleans local, it is extremely judgmental to say the things that you said. How about coming to New Orleans outside of the Carnival season? Of course the FQ is miserable during Carnival– that's the peak of tourism and drunkenness. The French Quarter is designed for tourists, therefore, has tourist traps just like any other city. Also, you have to remember NOLA is still recovering from Katrina, is below sea level, and is surrounded by water. Therefore, some days NOLA does smell like marsh water. Shocker. If you are so against New Orleans, you don't have to come back.
With that being said, New Orleans has a TON of things to offer to people who are willing to go outside of a one mile radius of the French Quarter. Avoid convention season, carnival, spring break, and concert season by planning a trip to New Orleans in the early fall, around October or November.
P.S.- For great beignets (and to avoid the craziness of Cafe Du Monde), try Cafe Royal on Royal Street. It's a small place by the Police Station and to the right of the Louisiana Supreme Court building. It's not crowded, there's rarely a wait, and has a lovely courtyard and inside to eat. The beignets are easily better than Cafe Du Monde and they serve other items as well if someone in your group isn't a beignet person. Also, feed the cats. They are locals who have to eat, too.
For solid information on the city, events, and eating, visit:
http://www.nomenu.com
http://www.nola.com
http://www.myneworleans.com
CNN would do the tourists a favor of instead of worrying about po-boys, you guys should be telling tourists what neighborhoods to avoid, going into a bad neighborhood could get you killed and there is one only three blocks away from Bourbon Street.
As far as crime in Treme goes it does happen, but i have coworkers that live in Treme who do not sit around worrying about what could happen. There is absolutely no reason for tourists to end up in Treme anyway, other then a few small hotels in a not so bad part of the neighborhood. It literally takes effort to end up crossing rampart from the quarter, as it is a divided four lane road. Other then that the Quarter is surrounded by the Central Business District which is obviously safe, as well as the Marigny which is a great area, and has Frenchman St which most tourists never discover.
CNN is what happens when you do your reporting through Google and Imgur. Crappy reporting, Gents.
Agreed. They only report on the "big name" tourist places, and neglect all the best restaurants. I doubt the person who put these links together has even been to New Orleans – they just sat at home and read a tourist book.
You are right. Muriel's is at the bottom of the barrel on the food chain in NOLA. It's overpriced tourist fare. Anything in the FQ is pretty much tourist fare. That poboy from muriel's was pathetic. You can do better, CNN.
No kidding! Why is Mandina's not on this list with the Trout Almondine, I live in Fort Walton and N.O. is only 3-4 hours away and i have been going there atleast 3 times a year for the last 38 years and to say the best places to eat are in the quarter!??! I understand for Mardi Gras most tourists will spend 95% of their time in the quarter, but if they had made suggestions as the good eats away from the quarter, i dont know say the garden district or algiers maybe tourists could actually enjoy the rest of New Orleans and meet some of the nice folks that N.O. home. And as for that bad neighborhood three blocks from Bourbon, the poster was right it can be a bad part of town, but from past experiences in that so callled bad part of town i have shared a plate of BBQ chicken and beer with several locals on several occasions, some of the best people in the country! love ya New Orleans!
Its a very small percent of the people in Treme, and you can figure out who those people are in about 2 seconds from 100 feet away.
It's Mardi Gras time, so here's another article telling you what to eat and drink.
Central Grocery is THE most overrated place in New Orleans. Don't go there. You'll stand in line for an hour to get an overprices, sub-par muffuletta. It's the kind of place a tourist eats – 'nuff said. If you want a GREAT muffuletta head over to Johnny's Po-Boy on the corner of St Louis and Decatur. It's where the locals eat and the price is right.
How out of touch is CNN?
No wonder their ratings are so low, please make some
changes and appeal to the masses!
What to eat and drink during Mardi Gras? Anything with alcohol.
What to avoid? Anything without alcohol.
Hey, Shmeckell. I'll drink to that!
Pat O'Briens is overrated. Don't waste your time.
My tummy is doing flips just reading the reviews and looking at the pics, lol.
what to avoid? that's simple – everything. food sux in 'nawlins!
Obviously you have never been there. Best food in the states, by far. Climb back under your rock.
I agree. The food I've had there is amazing. I guess the people who don't like it are not adventurous and and stick to bland food, fast food or are pure steak and potato people. Shrimp or oyster po-boy, muffaletta, red beans and rice, any kind of gumbo, fried alligator, turtle soup, blackened catfish... the list goes on. A good restaurant is Ralph and Kacoo's. I need to head down from Boston back to N.O. soon.
I agree with mike, that chit is nasty.
I too agree....I always have a difficult time finding something good to eat in New Orleans. Usually eat at chain restrauants because it is hard to screwup a BLT
New Orleans probably has the most unique culture anywhere in the United States, and unique food to go along with it. I've been to New Orleans with some pretty picky eaters, but they could always find plenty to keep them satisfied. Maybe you should stick to your McDonalds folks – it's obviously ruined your taste buds.
The Nawlins' food is awful and overpriced! Go anywhere else but new orleans!!!!! The place is nasty and is only for drunks!!
I could see if you walked within the same 5 blocks of Bourbon street you might think that. Venture out!! There's so much more. Don't be so narrow-minded.
All of you complaining must have gone to the tourist traps that are over priced. Yes, that sucks, but obviously you are suckers. There are MANY places to find incredible food. Drop the tourist books and ask a native, and not one at the hotel you are staying at.
You can also find hot donuts in NOLA, which is impossible to find elsewhere. There is no other way to eat a donut than when it is hot.
Hot Donuts served every day at Krispy Kreme!!!! Thats what that red Neon sign that says HOT is for. wink wink!
AMEN BROTHER
The pic of the beignet looks nothing like being at Cafe du Monde. The beignet looks fine, but in reality, there is powdered sugar absolutely everywhere. 8-) Nice clean up for the photo. And BTW, the best oysters are at Desire....
I prefer the beignet's at Cafe Beignet. I've never understood why Cafe du Monde gets all the attention.
You must have went to Cafe Beignet on their one good day of the year. I have yet to like their beinets better than Cafe do Monde.
Cafe Royal on Royal Street is hands down the best in the French Quarter. No long wait, nice people, a courtyard, and less tourists!