Sheraton told Capital's Zachary Woolfe, "It’s food writing for an audience less interested in food and more interested in the experience and the theater of it ... I don’t like it at all. I always told people what the place was like, but these long, long introductions about the scene—I usually skip the first column and a half and get to the food, because that’s what I think it’s about."
The New York Observer then served up a course-by-course sampling of both Sheraton's (1977) and Sifton's (2009) reviews of New York City's longstanding Francophile flagship La Grenouille for stylistic comparison. Topics included decor, patrons and the restaurant's signature souffle and it was entertaining, without a doubt, but we're gonna stick a Britchky in the mix.
Fame Bites goes inside the belly of the entertainment beast. We're dishing out where the celebrities are eating, what they're eating and who they're eating with.
Beginning January 17, Piers Morgan will preside over the nine o'clock weeknight slot where Larry King ruled the roost for 25 years. While everyone else is busy conjecturing about who Morgan's first guest will be, our interests lie elsewhere - like how the man eats.
We recently speculated from his Twitter stream that the British journalist knows how to wine and dine with the best of them - little did we know he could spit out vintners and vintages like Eminem at a rap battle. Turns out, growing up with parents in the restaurant business has its educational perks.
An interview with food writing legend Mimi Sheraton caused a bit of a ripple through the online food community today. She spoke with Zachary Woolfe of Capital New York about her 1975 to 1983 tenure as restaurant critic for the New York Times, and in addition to taking current reviewer Sam Sifton's pop-punched, imperative writing style to task, spent a goodly bit of time pining for the Francophile stylings of New York chefs of yore and blasting the chefs and media coverage she sees as too trend-centric.
We respect the absolute heck out of what Sheraton has contributed to the food writing profession and appreciate her experience and wealth of knowledge. Still, the one time we dined at the now-shuttered La Caravelle, a flagship for the sort of white linen, Dover sole and Grand Marnier souffle service about which she waxes rhapsodic, it was technically excellent, but felt akin to dining in a glass-walled exhibit at the Museum of Natural History.
Evolution and reverence for the past are, to us equally important but here's the thing - whose past?
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