From the Farm through the White House Farmers Market to the Table
July 16th, 2010
12:00 AM ET
Share this on:
Share
Permalink

WASHINGTON (CNN) - A peach is a peach is a peach - that is until you’ve had a tree ripened peach, picked just moments before you bite into it.  It will change the way you look at fruit. At least it did for me. 

Whole foodies, locavores, roof top gardeners, whatever food trend you’re into, bringing food from the farm to the table is undoubtedly hard work.  I got the chance to see just how hard when I followed food from a local farm to a farmers market and then to the dinner table at a D.C. restaurant.

My journey started in West Virginia where I met up with Eli Cook, a farmer who owns approximately 200 acres of land two hours outside of Washington, D.C.

Eli brings fresh, whole foods to six area farmers markets three days a week, including the White House farmer’s market, located across the park from its namesake. The job requires Eli to put in about 100 hours of work each week during farming season but for him, it’s a passion. 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


“Farming's the only thing that I've ever known ever since I was basically born,” said Eli.  “It was our way of life and it's what I love to do.” 

He grows and harvests hundreds of thousands of pounds of food a year and brings a variety of products to market.  Eli believes the key to success is diversity, so he grows everything from strawberries, basil, and green beans to cantaloupe, squash, and bell peppers.  In order to be truly profitable though, he says you must have the triumvirate of produce: corn, tomatoes and peaches. In fact, his best seller is peaches and as I learned, nothing beats a fresh, tree ripened peach. 

According to Eli, not much else can beat any of his fresh produce, especially anything from a grocery store.

“At many of our markets, the fruits and vegetables are less than 24 hours old, some markets, less than 6 hours old.  You can't get something that fresh in a grocery store and you can't get the personal relationship with the farmer,” Eli says.  “I can tell you exactly how everything was raised from the time it was a seedling to the time it hits your plate and you can't get that kind of service at a grocery store.”

His hard work pays off, especially at the relatively new White House Farmers Market. The market started last September with a little help from First Lady Michelle Obama who attended the opening.

“It's the best new market that we have ever done,” Eli says.  “Normally it takes three to five years for a market to build, the White House market on day one was very good and it has been consistent ever since.”

Eli credits Mrs. Obama and her White House food initiative for promoting the local food movement and farmers markets.  And despite the state of the economy, Eli has seen an 18% growth in his sales.

Michelle Obama is “educating everyone [on] how important it is to support local farms and eat local food and how much better it is for you.”

After visiting Eli at his farm, I caught up with him the next day at the White House farmers market.  There is a long line of people waiting to buy his produce, one of those people is Ris Lacoste, owner and chef of local DC restaurant Ris and a dedicated farmer’s market buyer.

She and Eli have worked together for some time now and she tries to buy as much from local farmers as possible.

“I feed people for a living and it’s my responsibility to feed them food that is good for them.”

Beyond the social responsibility, Ris feels the markets also help inspire her menus.  She even has a section on her menu called “Sun-kissed Foods” where she features her purchases from the local markets.   

On the day of the White House farmer’s market, I followed Ris as she bought her produce, brought it back to her restaurant, and prepared it for that evening’s dinner service.  

“I have a orecchiette pasta that I make with a pesto sauce and so I’ll use that basil to make the pesto.  I serve it with summer squash and spinach and a little bit of arugula and pine nuts and fresh goat cheese,” Ris tells me. 

But what about the peaches? “We have a delicious peach crumb cake,” she assures me.

In addition to the quality of food Ris gets from farmers markets, she has a relationship with these farmers and feels confident about the way her food is grown.

“I have a different relationship with every farmer,” Ris tells me.  “A lot of these farmers in these small markets they really care for it.  The love and the care that they put into the food that they grow and hand picking it and tending it and being at the market themselves,” is a selling point for the chef.

“I hope it translates to what the customers are experiencing at the table,” Ris says. “I want the diners to sit here, have a fabulous time, I want them to say it is delicious and using fresh, fresh produce as I do is part of that deliciousness. We are what we eat.”

And if we are what we eat, then I’m happy to be a peach.  Because her peach crumb cake was truly delicious. 



Next entry »
« Previous entry
soundoff (11 Responses)
  1. Flashing Beacon 

    i love the way spongebob laughs, he is really very cheesy.:'

    October 20, 2010 at 2:42 pm |
  2. Mole

    Hi,

    Today I come again to your site. Actually, I've been following your blog for 3 days now and i should say i am starting to like your post. and now how do i subscribe to your blog?

    Thanks

    July 24, 2010 at 11:08 am |
  3. Hernandez Family!

    Eli, Eli, he's our man! His fruits & vegetables are too good for a can! He's all brain, he's so smart! We love Spring Valley Farm & Orchard with all my heart!! lol!!

    July 18, 2010 at 10:49 am |
  4. Tammy

    My husband and I really enjoy Eli Cook's fresh fruits and vegetables. Especially his strawberries, peaches, sweet corn and tomatoes. Eli's workers are courteous and his stands are always neat and well organized. I make my own homemade baby food for my daughter and we prepare most of our meals using Eli's produce. Spring Valley Farm & Orchard sells the finest produce that money can buy!

    July 17, 2010 at 8:28 pm |
  5. ValleyGirlMall

    Is the difference between "whole foods" and "organic" a matter of semantics into fooling people into thinking they are getting organic food when in reality they are not. What is the definition of "whole foods"? There are laws about labeling foods "organic". The federal regulations for labeling foods "organic" are less strict than the regulations that many states had imposed but the federal regulations supersede. This is why you have to read labels. There are no laws for calling produce "whole foods"!

    July 17, 2010 at 12:18 am |
    • pantherrock

      The definition of a whole food is one that has not been processed. For example grains, vegetables, raw milk etc.
      Organic, especially USDA certified organic follows a set of rules on how it is grown. For certified organic foods, there is a paper trail for each product from seed to soil to harvest to market. Processed foods such as breakfast cereals, ketchup etc. may be certified organic but they are not whole foods either.

      July 17, 2010 at 7:13 am |
    • brown

      basically organic means something specific, nothing else does. if you really want to know what's going into your meat, applied to your veggies, etc, the best thing to do is to get to know a farmer. as pantherrock mentions some states have more strict organic standards than federal and it's hard to tell which set of standards is being used (although the fed regs are typically the "minimum"). no matter where you are, you'd be surprised how close your farmers are.....look at localharvest.org or some other similar site to find local sources of food.

      July 17, 2010 at 7:54 am |
  6. Kellie

    Eli does a fantastic job. We got his sweet corn on Sunday at Dupont Circle.

    July 16, 2010 at 12:51 pm |
  7. Pam

    Eli sells the best peaches in the Washington DC area. His other produce is great as well. His stand is always
    well organized, neat and fairly priced.

    July 16, 2010 at 10:54 am |
  8. Corn Moon Dinner

    Great post! Cattaraugus County Community Supported Agricultural farmers, artisans and chefs are hosting a dinner highlighting the region’s local foods in Olean, NY this August. We are a grassroots fundraiser with the goal of generating interest in Cattaraugus County’s many farms and ranches and raising monies to start a local food system.
    The basic premise of the food system is to provide fresh, locally grown produce and pasture raised meats to area food pantries with a long term goal to create a nonprofit organization, with the help of NYSAWG and NOFA-NY, to be the liaison between local farms and food pantries. We want to educate those involved with food pantries, from the volunteers to the customers, and the general public on how to create meals out of the food they receive from farms, ranches, co-ops and farmers markets.

    July 16, 2010 at 9:48 am |
Next entry »
« Previous entry
Facebook Twitter RSS
Previous Next
Eatocracy on Twitter follow »
Twitter icon
National Coquilles Saint Jacques Day! National Coquilles Saint Jacques Day! National Coquilles Saint Jacques Day! http://t.co/7bRCeIkU 2:22 pm UTC, May 16 2012
Twitter icon
Live on @cnni at 6:40 - @SarahLeTrent talks foie controversy! 9:58 pm UTC, May 15 2012
Twitter icon
RT @joshgroban: Happy national chocolate chip day! Anyone out there substituting for carob needs to explain to me how they sleep at night. 6:49 pm UTC, May 15 2012
Twitter icon
Hospitality saves lives. @chefmikeanthony on why nearly losing his life made him treasure it all the more: http://t.co/QvFCtbz0 4:55 pm UTC, May 15 2012
Twitter icon
RT @cnnireport: What do you want to know about 'Naked Chef' @JamieOliver? Post a video question & he may answer http://t.co/7VLcLYdp #foodrevolution 4:36 pm UTC, May 15 2012
 
| Part of